2012 Survival Guide | Before, during and after | So you’ve survived the pole shift | Survival guide Video and Information | Action plan | Shelter | Food | Water | Plants, weeds and seeds | Tools | Electricity

Action Plan

Picture 17


Picture 18


Emergency supplies are good but you need to know how to get sustainable food

Picture 14


Picture 15

Plants, weeds, herbs, seeds,

Picture 16

Picture 21

Picture 22

Picture 23


Picture 20


Picture 25

Picture 26

Picture 27

2012 Survival Guide



This Survival Guide is intended as a basic introduction on how to prepare for and react to events that may take place over the course of the years leading up to December 21, 2012. These skills and techniques are provided for information purposes only and are not intended to take the place of a professional survival or first aid training course. Rather, they are intended to increase your awareness of the lifesaving importance of preparation of the coming events, survival skills and to encourage you to research the events that may transpire.

For beginners interested in understanding the basics of December 21, 2012 and the Earth changing events, there is unlimited information available from many sources, and advances of knowledge and collaboration have led to a growing number of “watchers” and people that are preparing even though they do not believe something is to happen. Even so, at least they will be ready, and you should as well. Even if nothing is to happen then there will be ample number of supplies to last you for the coming years. What if the Earth does change rapidly, and you are not prepared? If you meet the minimal requirements to survive through Pole Shift, Volcanic Eruptions, Extreme Cold, Hurricanes, Tornados, Earthquakes, Land Shifts, Major Floods, Solar and Gamma Radiation then you are one more step in the right direction.

However, there is no substitute for experience in any of these extreme situations, and your reaction in a survival situation depends on your education and training. Always keep in mind that a survival situation mentioned above can happen to you. Be prepared and plan to be a survivor.

For too long, the term “survivalist” has called to mind paranoia, and the person that lives out in the woods. Nevertheless, as we continue on track towards our unknown future, we will not be called “survivalist”, but “survivors” as we will need every ounce of energy, every thought of our brain, and every inch of muscle to continue our existence here on planet Earth. The following pages are for the ones that may or may not believe what has been foretold, and what history has taught us throughout the years.

Read at your own discretion

Table of Contents

Chapter                                                                                             pg

1. The Basics………………………………………………………………………3




2. Beyond the Basics….…………………………………………………………..14

Developing a Survival Mindset

Survival Awareness

3. Disasters………………………………………………………………………..18





Fire Storms

Volcanic Eruption

Asteroid impact


Polar Reversal/Shift

Extreme Cold/Heat

Riot/Civil Disaster

Electricity Shortage


Alien Invasion

4. How To…………………………………………………………………………29



First Aid

5. How can you Afford all this…………………………………………………………………..37

6. Check List……………………………………………………………………..38

Chapter 1: The Basics

If you’ve given any thought to survival, you know that food, water and shelter are the foundation of any long-term survival plan. If you prepare to provide these three items for yourself and family, you will be farther ahead than 90 percent of the public.

Many would say water is the most important of the three, but we’ll address them in the order of: Food, Water and Shelter. Below are some questions to ask yourself to better understand what specifics you will need to prepare for in your area of the world. (or to be safe, prepare for all)

What natural disasters or extreme conditions you likely to face in the next four years?

What other disasters or emergency situations might you face?

What are the ramifications of each?

What do you have now that you can use in any disaster situation?

How much is the minimum for you and your survival situation is an answer you’ll have to come up with after reviewing this survival guide, but don’t worry we will give a generic minimal survival pack.


You may be able to survive a few weeks or even a month without food, but without food, you will become weak, susceptible to illnesses, dizzy and unable to perform survival-related tasks. Water may be more critical to short-term survival, but you will need every ounce of energy to get out of harms way, this is why food is also just as important.

Will a months worth of food be enough? Or do you need a year’s worth? 2012 Online cannot tell you what’s best in your situation, but we suggest that two weeks or more is the minimum for anyone in any of these potential survival situations. Why should you stock up on so much food if the worst you’re planning to prepare for is a just a little out of the ordinary?

Several reasons:

It may take a while for store shelves to be replenished especially as we approach December 21, 2012. Think back to a heavy storm that hit your area, was there enough supplies for everyone? Now imagine a whole country, or even the world needing the same supplies. Now there is a problem.

You may be asked to feed friends or neighbors.

You may or may not be protected from price gouging.

You need to be prepared for a crippling blow to our food supply system.

You will need an existing food supply and a future food supply

Your existing food reserve should not include food in your refrigerator or freezer because you cannot count on those items remaining edible for more than a day (fridge) or three (freezer), at most.

Examination of your existing foods in your cabinets will tell you how much you need to add to ensure you have enough food for a week. A suggestion of food storage is generally canned items (including items in jars) or dried foods. Review our list of commercial food items and their suggested storage times when making up your personal list but keep in mind your family’s eating habits, likes and dislikes. Also, remember that you may not have access to electricity, so pick food items and packaging that can be prepared on a single burner of a camp stove or even over an open fire.

Rotation of Foods

The main difference between the commercially prepared foods you buy in the grocery store and the specially prepared “survival” foods is the shelf storage. You can’t store grocery store items for five to ten years, as you can with specially freeze-dried or sealed foods packed in nitrogen or vacuum sealed. You need to rotate your items, either on an ongoing basis or every two to three months. This will ensure you have fresh food (if you can consider canned and dry food “fresh”) and do not waste your food and money.

As a general rule, traditional canned foods should be consumed within a year. For cans with expiration dates, such as Campbell’s soups, you may find you have 18 months or two years before they expire. Cans without a date, or with a code, mark them with the date purchased and make sure you eat them before a year passes.

Survival Foods

Simple raw materials for baking, such as flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, oil and shortening can be assets in a survival situation. For long-term survival storage, honey stores for years and can replace sugar in recipes. Rather than storing flour or meal, purchase the raw grain and a hand mill. Then you can mill your own flour whenever necessary. Red winter wheat, golden wheat, corn and other grains can be purchased in 45-pound lots packed in nitrogen-packed bags and shipped in large plastic pails.

Long-term storage falls into several categories:

Vacuum-packed dried and freeze-dried foods

Nitrogen packed grains and legumes

Specially prepared and sealed foods such as MRE’s (Meals, Ready-to-Eat) with a five-to-ten year shelf life

All offer one main advantage: long storage life. Some, such as MRE’s and packages sold to backpackers, are complete meals. This is handy and convenient, but they tend to be expensive on a per-meal basis. As the name implies, MRE’s are ideal for a quick, nutritious, easy-to-prepare meal. They are convenient to carry in the car, on a trip or on a hike. They have very long shelf lives (which can be extended by placing a case or two in your spare refrigerator). On the downside, they are very expensive on a per-meal basis and they do not provide as much roughage as you need. (This can lead to digestive problems if you plan to live on them for more than a week or two). Large canned goods, on the other hand, are difficult to transport. But if you’re stocking up your survival retreat or planning to batten down the hatches and stay at home, the large canned goods are easy to store and can keep you well-fed for months.

Remember, however, if you have four people in your family or survival group, purchasing a one-year supply of food will only equate to three months worth for the family. 2012 Online recommends purchasing the largest set of these canned, dried foods your budget can handle. Then supplement the set with items tailored to you and your family or survival group. You may also want to add a few special items, such as hard candy or deserts, to reward yourself or for quick energy.

While on the topic of supplements, don’t forget to add vitamins and mineral supplements. Fruits, green vegetables and other items rich in vitamin C and other nutrients may be scarce, so a good multi-vitamin is well worth the space it takes up in your stash.

Home Made Survival Foods

You can try to dry, vacuum-pack and otherwise prepare food for storage. Vacuum pumps are available commercially or can be constructed in your own home. You can use them to seal dried food in mason jars and other containers.

When packing foods for storage, you want to eliminate oxygen. Bugs, such as weevils, and other organisms that can destroy your food need the oxygen to live. That’s why commercial companies who prepare survival food pack grains, cereals, pasta, beans and other foods in nitrogen-filled containers. You can accomplish a similar packaging yourself by using dried ice.

Simply take the 10 pounds of noodles (or 25 pounds of rice or other dried food) you picked up from the warehouse and put them in an appropriately sized plastic bucket with a lid that can create a good seal. Then add several chunks of dried ice. As it sublimates, your bucket will fill with carbon dioxide, which will displace all or most of the oxygen (since carbon dioxide is heavier, the oxygen should rise to the top and out of the bucket). Place the lid on the bucket, but don’t seal it all the way until you think the dry ice has completely turned to gas. Remember, as soon as you open the bucket the air will come back in.

Hunting and Gathering in the Wild

It’s time to look to nature to help feed you. That’s great if you have acres of tillable land that was not destroyed. But if not, or if it’s too late, you will need to turn to hunting, trapping and gathering.

If you can identify wild plants that can supplement your existing diet, good for you. If not, better go out and buy a few guide books right away. Get ones with pictures, you’ll need them. If you’re a hunter, could you imagine what the local patch of forest would be like if everyone’s dinner depended on hunting? How quickly would we strip this continent of all edible game? Planning on fishing? So is everyone else.

Tip – Always drink while eating, your body looses lots of water while digesting. If you do not have water to drink – DO NOT EAT!


As mentioned previously, water is probably the most necessary element for human life, with the exception of oxygen.

When planning your water resources for survival you need to deal with three areas:

Storing water

Finding or obtaining water

Purifying water

Storing Water

For your in-home cache or survival stash, you should count on two gallons of water per-person per-day. While this is more water than necessary to survive it ensures water is available for hygiene and cooking as well as drinking.

Commercial gallon bottles of filtered/purified spring water often carry expiration dates two years after the bottling date. A good rotation program is necessary to ensure your supply of water remains fresh and drinkable (see the previous chapter on food for information on rotation).

If you prefer to store your own water, don’t use milk cartons; it’s practically impossible to remove the milk residue. If you have a spare refrigerator in the basement or the garage, use water bottles (the kind soda or liters of water come in) to fill any available freezer space. In addition to providing you with fresh, easily transportable drinking water, the ice can be used to cool food in the refrigerator in the event of a power failure. For self-storage of large amounts of water, you’re probably better off with containers of at least 5 gallons. Food-grade plastic storage containers are available commercially in sizes from five gallons to 250 or more. Containers with handles and spouts are usually five to seven gallons, which will weigh between 40 and 56 pounds.

A 15 gallon and 30 gallon container used for food service such as delivery of syrups to soda bottlers and other manufacturers are often available on the surplus market. After proper cleaning, these are ideal for water storage as long as a tight seal can be maintained. 55 gallon drums and larger tanks are also useful for long-term storage, but make sure you have a good pump. Solutions designed to be added to water to prepare it for long-term storage are commercially available. Bleach can also be used as a last resort to treat water from municipal sources. Added at a rate of about 1 teaspoon per 10 gallons, bleach can ensure the water will remain drinkable.

Once you’re in a survival situation where there is a limited amount of water, conservation is an important consideration. While drinking water is critical, water is also necessary for re-hydrating and cooking dried foods. Water from boiling pasta, cooking vegetables and similar sources can and should be retained and drunk, after it has cooled. Canned vegetables also contain liquid that can be consumed. To preserve water, save water from washing your hands, clothes and dishes to flush toilets.

Short Term Storage

People who have electric pumps drawing water from their well have learned the lesson of filling up all available pots and pans when a thunderstorm is brewing. What would you do if you knew your water supply would be disrupted in an hour?

Here are a few options in addition to filling the pots and pans:

The simplest option is to put two or three heavy-duty plastic trash bags (avoid those with post-consumer recycled content) inside each other. Then fill the inner bag with water. You can even use the trash can to give structure to the bag. Fill your bath tub almost to the top. While you probably won’t want to drink this water, it can be used to flush toilets, wash your hands, etc. If you are at home, a fair amount of water will be stored in your water pipes and related system. To gain access to this water, you must first close the valve to the outside as soon as possible. This will prevent the water from running out as pressure to the entire system drops and prevent contaminated water from entering your house. Then open a faucet on the top floor. This will let air into the system so a vacuum doesn’t hold the water in. Next, you can open a faucet in the basement. Gravity should allow the water in your pipes to run out the open faucet. You can repeat this procedure for both hot and cold systems. Your hot water heater will also have plenty of water inside it. You can access this water from the valve on the bottom. Again, you may need to open a faucet somewhere else in the house to ensure a smooth flow of water.

Finding or Obtaining Water

There are certain climates and geographic locations where finding water will either be extremely easy or nearly impossible. You’ll have to take your location into account when you read the following.

Wherever you live, your best bet for finding a source of water is to scout out suitable locations and stock up necessary equipment before an emergency befalls you. With proper preparedness, you should know not only the location of the nearest streams, springs or other water source but specific locations where it would be easy to fill a container and the safest way to get it home. Preparedness also means having at hand an easily installable system for collecting rain water. This can range from large tarps or sheets of plastic to a system for collecting water run off from your roof or gutters. Once

you have identified a source of water, you need to have bottles or other containers ready to transport it or store it.


Water that is not purified may make you sick, possibly even killing you. In a survival situation, with little or no medical attention available, you need to remain as healthy as possible. Boiling water is the best method for purifying running water you gather from natural sources. It doesn’t require any chemicals, or expensive equipment, all you need is a large pot and a good fire or similar heat source. Boiling for 20 or 30 minutes should kill common bacteria such as Guardia and Cryptosporidium. One should consider that boiling water will not remove foreign contaminants such as radiation or heavy metals.

Commercial purification/filter devices made by companies such as PUR are the best choices. They range in size from small pump filters designed for backpackers to large filters designed for entire camps. Probably the best filtering devices for survival retreats are the model where you pour water into the top and allow it to slowly seep through the media into a reservoir on the bottom. No pumping is required. On the down side, most such filtering devices are expensive and have a limited capacity. Filters are good for anywhere from 200 liters to thousands of gallons, depending on the filter size and mechanism. Some filters used fiberglass and activated charcoal. Others use impregnated resin or even ceramic elements.

Chemical additives are another, often less suitable option. The water purification pills sold to hikers and campers have a limited shelf life, especially once the bottle has been opened.

Pour-though filtering systems can be made in an emergency. Here’s one example that will remove many contaminants:

Take a five or seven gallon pail (a 55-gallon drum can also be used for a larger scale system) and drill or punch a series of small holes on the bottom.

Place several layers of cloth on the bottom of the bucket, this can be anything from denim to an old table cloth.

Add a thick layer of sand (preferred) or loose dirt. This will be the main filtering element, so you should add at least half of the pail’s depth.

Add another few layers of cloth, weighted down with a few larger rocks.

Your home-made filter should be several inches below the top of the bucket.

Place another bucket or other collection device under the holes you punched on the bottom.

Pour collected or gathered water into the top of your new filter system. As gravity works, the water will filter through the media and drip out the bottom, into your collection device. If the water is cloudy or full of sediment, simply let it drop to the bottom and draw the cleaner water off the top of your collection device with a straw or tube.

(If you have a stash of activated charcoal, possibly acquired from an aquarium dealer, you can put a layer inside this filter. Place a layer of cloth above and especially below the charcoal. This will remove other contaminants and reduce any unpleasant smell or taste).

While this system may not be the best purification method, it has been successfully used in the past. For rain water or water gathered from what appear to be relatively clean sources of running water, the system should work fine. If you have no water source but a contaminated puddle, oily highway runoff or similar polluted source, the filter may be better than nothing.


Frequently, when we think of shelter, we think of either our home or emergency protection, such as a lean-to constructed out of cut branches.

In many survival situations, shelter may be as near as your home. If you don’t need to evacuate, you may be better off at home, even if the power is off or the storm is threatening. Remember, your bug-out bag has the bare essentials; your survival stash at home should have enough food and water for weeks or even months.

If you are at home or in the vicinity during a natural disaster, your first course of action must be to determine where you will be safest. If you decide not to evacuate, you must then set about making your current residence as safe as possible. In many cases, this will mean moving into the basement or another protected part of the house. In an apartment or condominium, your best bet will probably be an interior room without windows, or even the basement of the apartment complex.

While many will find that there home, friend’s apartment or relative’s house is the easiest and most cost-effective safe house, the ultimate safe house or survival retreat would be a second residence located in a very rural location. During normal times, this survival retreat can double as your vacation home, hunting lodge or weekend getaway destination. But when the flag goes up, you can evacuate to a safe house fully stocked with everything you need for self sufficiency.

Safe Home should be:

Well off the beaten track, ideally reachable by a single dirt road. This seclusion will offer you a good bit of protection. For example, you can cut a large tree down across the road to help eliminate unwanted guests.

Near a spring, well, stream or other natural source of water.

Equipped with at least a fireplace or wood stove for cooking and heat.

Within 10 to 20 miles of a village or small town where you can go (by foot, if necessary) for additional supplies, news and other contact with the outside world, should the emergency stretch into months or longer.

Arable enough land to grow your own vegetables and other crops.

Near a natural, easily harvestable food source (usually wildlife for hunting or fishing).

Provisioned with enough food to keep your family safe for at least three months, preferably a year.

Provisioned with tools necessary for long-term self sufficiency, should it become necessary.

Stocked with enough weapons and ammunition to defend it from small groups of marauding invaders, should it come to that.

If you are worried about caching goods in a unattended house, where they could be stolen, you can cache a supply nearby. While most caches are buried in hidden locations, a simple solution to this dilemma is to rent a commercial storage unit in a town close to your retreat. This has several advantages:

As long as you have access to the facility 24 hours a day (one of those outside storage areas where you use your own lock is best) you can get to your supplies when necessary.

It will be much easier to make a few trips to and from the nearby storage facility and your safe house than carry everything with you from home.

It’s easier to check on the status and add materials to this type of cache than one buried in a secluded location.

In a worst case scenario, you can hoof it to the storage area, spend the night inside and hike back the next day with a full backpack.

Of course, for the ultimate protection, a buried or other hidden cache is hard to beat. The is especially true for the long-term storage of ammunition and weapons that are or may one day be considered illegal.

Chapter 2: Beyond the Basic

Based on the previous section, you should have a good idea of the potential survival situations you might be facing. Now the question is whether to stay and face them or move to another, safer location.

At the first hint of trouble and rising prices, visit the local food warehouse and grocery stores and buy as much as you can afford. Get the 50 pound bags of rice and the 25 pound bags of flour. Use your credit cards and part of your emergency cash stash, if necessary.

Hunker down at home and protect what is yours.

Keep a low profile and avoid contact with others, except fellow members of your survival group. Avoid trouble and confrontations.

Hope that within six months the country will have recovered or at least stabilized. If not, the population will probably be a lot smaller when this is over.

We all have a strong desire to protect what’s ours. Thankfully, there are times when staying at home makes the most sense. If you can wait out the events of December 21, 2012 at your home, batten down the hatches and stay at home, it may be your best bet. There are many advantages to staying home in a survival situation, if you can safely do so:

The food in your refrigerator and pantry can supplement your survival stash (see the previous chapter).

If you loose power, you can quickly cook much of your food and monitor the temperature of your freezer (frozen food will usually keep at least 24 hours).

You’ll have more time to improve your home’s chances of survival (move items to high ground, put plywood over windows, etc.)

It offers shelter against most elements*.

You’ll have access to all your clothing, bedding and other comforts.

You won’t suffer from boredom as much as you might in a shelter.

You can protect your stuff from looters.

Of course, there is a downside as well:

You could be putting yourself in unnecessary, life-threatening danger. (The polar shift, flood, hurricane, riot, asteroid, volcano etc. might be worse than anticipated).

You will be without heat, electricity, hot water and other services.

You may feel cut off and alone.

*will not protect against any radiation

When disaster strikes, home isn’t the only option.

In a large building, you can count on a security force that will probably be smart enough to lock the doors and take some action to prevent access to the building by a crowd. If you think the building is being overrun by rioters, pull the fire alarm. This will result in all the elevators being recalled to the lobby and they won’t run again until they are reset.

On your floor or in your suite, bar the door, check your personal weapon and, if there are enough people present, assign some people to stand guard. If you are alone on the floor, or there are invaders in the building, look for a good hiding place.

Shopping centers, fast food restaurants and other public buildings also may offer some protection when disasters strikes, but they could be targets for looting, so you will want to avoid them. In a severe survival situation, you need to look out for your immediate family. So if you’re trying to get out of the city in an emergency and your car breaks down, who’s going to blame you for breaking into that empty house and seeking shelter? In a life-or-death situation, property crimes will be the least of your worries.

No matter how much you wish to stay at home, there are times when evacuation is the only choice. These include an asteroid, tsunami, nuclear or biological event as well as any impending disaster that is likely to destroy your home. So, if the survival situations you outlined in the previous section show several emergency situations requiring evacuation, you’ll need to put together a plan:

The Evacuation Plan

There are several important elements to your evacuation plan:

Where to go

How to get there

What to bring with you

Sure, you can head to the nearest shelter, but if sitting on cots at the local high school gymnasium or National Guard Armory was your first choice, you probably wouldn’t be reading this.

You need a safe house or survival retreat in a location where the current crisis will not threaten you. The easiest way to set up a safe house is to coordinate with a friend or family member located between 100 and 150 miles away, preferably in a different setting. For example:

If you’re in the inner city, they should be in a rural area or at least a smaller town, preferably not the suburbs of your city

If you’re near the coast, they should be inland

If you’re near a flood plain, the safe house should be on higher ground.

Following these guidelines, you can be relatively sure of several things:

Whatever disaster you are facing should not affect them, and vice versa. This allows you to trade off, so when they are facing a survival situation, your home can be their safe house.

If you plan in advance, you can leave a few changes of old clothes, a toiletries kit, necessary prescription drugs, ammunition, some MRE’s or anything else you might need at the safe house. This will make your evacuation easier.

Chapter 3: Disasters


The best way to prevent damage from flooding is to move before one occurs. Seriously, don’t live on a flood plain unless you have no choice. If you learned anything in the last decade, it should be floods can and do occur in low-lying areas previously thought safe. Rivers and streams rise to record levels, levy’s break, and there’s just too much concrete for the ground to absorb all that rain.

If you’re stuck in a flood, follow your instincts and move to the highest ground possible. Exercise caution when traveling because it doesn’t take much water to float a car or pick up truck.


The old advice of standing in a doorway or hiding in the closet or under a table is better than running around panic-stricken, and it may just save your life. If you live in an earth-quake prone area, prepare for it by ensuring your home meets current building standards and you have plenty of food and water stashed away.

If you live through the few minutes of the earthquake, and your house hasn’t collapsed, the greater damage may be yet to come. Broken gas lines can cause fires and your house may be condemned, leaving you homeless. Plan for such contingencies by having a plastic (non-sparking) wrench available to turn off your gas main and including a good three-day pack including a tent.


Hurricanes are one of the few disasters for which you can anticipate some warning. If your home is near the shore and the rising surf is threatening, or you appear to be in the direct course of the hurricane, you may be better off evacuating to higher ground. Whether or not you choose to evacuate, tremendous structural damage can be caused by objects hurled through windows. Once a window is open, the power of the hurricane can actually blow the roof off the top of the structure!

To protect yourself and your property, windows should be covered with plywood or commercial hurricane shutters. 2012 Online recommends hurricane shutters, made from tough clear polycarbonate and allow light to enter the window, unlike their steel and aluminum counterparts. Garage doors should also be reinforced and the door between the garage and the house itself should be locked and secured.

Hurricanes cause damage in multiple ways: high winds, flooding, downed trees and utility poles and storm surges. The farther in-land your location, the less power the hurricane will have by the time it reaches you, so pick your location carefully.

If you decided to stay in your home, you should pick an interior room with no windows. If you plan far enough in advance, you can reinforce the room with 2×6 boards or otherwise construct a cage to protect you from fallen trees, caved-in walls or other storm damage. Move whatever survival supplies you will need into the room, especially a battery powered light and radio.


While tornadoes cannot be predicted as early as hurricanes, current weather forecasting technology will often tell us when atmospheric conditions are right for their formation. By sticking around the homestead during a tornado watch, you can help protect yourself from the tremendous damage twisters can cause.

A direct hit from a funnel cloud can turn a wooden home into a pile of chopsticks, toss a minivan around like a tumbleweed and knock trees down faster than Paul Bunyon. So if you live in a tornado-prone area, you might be wise to invest in an underground shelter, ala the Wizard of Oz. (You can use it as a root cellar or nuclear survival shelter as well.)

If you live in an area not known for tornadoes, but suddenly one is baring down on you, your next-best bet is the basement, preferably in the corner closest to the direction of the tornado.

If you are driving around and a tornado is looming, park under an underpass and run up as high as you can under it. If caught out in the open, head for the lowest ground possible, even a drainage ditch is better than nothing.


If a fire occurs in your home you may have to get out in dark and difficult conditions. Escaping from a fire will be a lot easier if you have already planned your escape route and know where to go. Make sure that your planned escape route remains free of any obstructions and that there are no loose floor coverings that could trip you. Everyone in the house should be made aware of the escape route

It only takes an unguarded or careless moment for a fire to start. A couple of minutes later and your home or land around could be filled with smoke. Smoke and fumes can kill, particularly the highly poisonous smoke from some furnishings. You will only have a short time to get out. Use it wisely and try not to panic.

If you can safely do so, close the door of the room where the fire has started and close all other doors behind you. This will help delay the spread of smoke.

Before opening a closed door, use the back of your hand to touch it. Don’t open it if it feels warm, the fire may be on the other side.

Get everyone out as quickly as possible. Don’t try to pick up valuables or possessions except your what you need for survival.

Make your way out as safely as possible and try not to panic.

It will help if you have planned your escape route rather than waiting until there is a fire.

What to do if you’re cut off by fire

It is not easy, but try and remain calm. Save your energy to help you survive

If you are prevented from getting away because of flames or smoke, close the door nearest to the fire and use towels or sheets to block any gaps. This will help stop smoke spreading into the room.

Go to the window. If the room becomes smoky, go down to floor level – it’s easier to breathe because the smoke will rise upwards.

If you are in immediate danger and your room is not too high from the ground, drop cushions or bedding to the ground below to break your fall from the window.

Get out feet first and lower yourself to the full length of your arms before dropping.

Wilderness Fires

If you are caught in the middle of a dangerous fire storm, your best option is to seek a water source and stay near it. Go under ground if possible, but you need to leave an escape route if the fire changes course. With any fire situation, you always need to know escape routes and have back up plans.

Volcanic Eruption

Keep in mind the center of Earth is molten rock, and a volcanic eruption can occur almost anywhere, but there is not much an individual can do to prepare for a volcanic eruption. Be aware of the hazards that can come with an eruption: the flying debris, hot gases, lava flows, and potential for explosion, mudslides, avalanches, and geothermal areas. Prepare provisions, water, food, blankets, and medical supplies if you live around a volcano before anything happens.

Also be ready to get up and outrun flowing lava.

Use caution when around or near active volcanoes.

Do not venture toward any activity, and consult local experts on the area.

Follow all recommendations, regulations, or requests of officials.

Here are some things to watch out for:

Lava flows – Stay away from lava flows. Not all of them will be red-hot and obvious; some move very slowly and appear as dark and solid, but are liquid beneath the surface. Also, do not try to cross an active flow; you might get trapped by multiple lava streams.

Pyroclastic flow – Do not visit volcanoes that are having or are about to have Pyroclastic explosions. The high temperature around such a volcano can itself be life-threatening.

Volcanic domes – Volcanic domes and plugs in craters may seem harmless, but they can explode without warning. Footing and glassy rocks can also be very dangerous. Some cooled lava of this sort can resemble jagged pieces of glass. Wear good, solid hiking boots on the mountain – never go barefoot. Be sure of your step.

Lahars and floods – Be careful when crossing lahars (debris flows), for they can gush in large and small floods.

Gases – Avoid areas where volcanic gas is released. Carbon dioxide, sulfur dioxide, and hydrogen sulfide can kill quickly and silently. You may not be able to hold your breath long enough. If you see a location around an active volcano with dead vegetation, carcasses, or bones, do not enter it.

Geothermal areas – hot springs, mud pots, and geysers are also very interesting, but don’t go across unexplored areas that contain many of them. Stay on marked trails, because the thin silica crusts over boiling pools can break if stepped upon. If you Fall in, it can potentially cause third-degree burns or even death.

Before an Eruption Occurs:

Discover whether there are volcanic hazards in the area likely to affect you.

If you live in an active volcanic zone, always assume that you may have to deal with the effects of an eruption.

If you live in an area that could experience a lava flow during a volcanic eruption, know a quick route to safe ground.

If Vulcanologists agree that a life-threatening eruption is likely to take place, a Civil Defense Emergency will be declared and the danger area evacuated. Listen to your radio or TV if all is working, for information.

During an Eruption:

Save water in your bath, basin, containers or cylinders at an early stage – supplies may become polluted.

Stay indoors as much as possible.

Wear mask and goggles if you go outside, to keep volcanic ash out of your eyes and lungs.

Take your outdoor clothing off before entering a building, volcanic ash is difficult to get rid of.

Take your Getaway Kit with you if you have to leave. Turn electricity and gas off at the mains. If you turn gas off, have a professional check for leaks in case of damage before turning gas on again.

Keep below ridge lines in hilly terrain, the hills will offer some protection from flying volcanic debris.

A good pre-planned emergency plan should account for this possibility and provide alternative routes.

Near Earth Objects (NEO’s)

A reasonably large asteroid of 200 meters (600 feet) in diameter crashing into the Atlantic Ocean could create a tsunami (a giant tidal wave) that would sink both Britain and the entire East Coast of the United States within minutes. If an asteroid at least 1 kilometer in size hit Earth, it would cause a dust cloud which would block out sunlight for at least a year and lead to a deep worldwide winter, exhausting food supplies.

So this threat is real, but the chances of an NEO over one kilometer (3,000 feet) long hitting the Earth soon are practically 1-100. Even so you do need to have an contingency plan in place if this was to happen. The evidence of impact is all around us. But we will focus on the smaller car size asteroids in this section, because if there was a massive asteroid heading our way we would be given advanced warning (hopefully).

So what do you do

For a land impact, it can be said that an object of roughly 75 meters (225 feet) diameter can probably destroy a city and a 160-meter (480-foot) object can destroy a large urban area. If there is an expecting meteor shower, stay tuned to local government officials and monitor the sky.

Impacts from smaller object are almost impossible to predict the impact zone

If you live near a cave system, you may want to go and set up a temporary shelter there, or if you live in the city, go to the lowest point of the building (in an emergency, but not recommended due to possible building collapse). Other possibilities are:

Nuclear fallout shelters

Steel structures

Subway systems

Do not:

Stay outside during a meteor storm

Stay on the top of buildings

Go to the debris of the Meteor

Always have your survival stash available

Extreme Cold

While people do die in their homes due to bitter winter weather, these deaths are often caused by kerosene heaters or other sources of heat. Fire is a danger with any secondary heat source, including wood stoves, fireplaces, kerosene, propane and electric heaters, but they can be managed to reduce fire hazards. Carbon monoxide poisoning is also a concern which must be considered when using untraditional heat sources, such as gathering around the gas oven and opening the door.

Another danger is freezing to death if the power fails. People often think they will be OK because they have a gas or oil furnace. This is a fallacy, because the gas furnace needs an electric fan to move warm air throughout your house while even the oil furnace probably has an electric starter and/or fuel pump.

A secondary source of heat is important, and wood stoves are probably the most efficient. While fire places send much of the heat up the chimney they share with wood stoves the conveniences of being able to find fuel all around you, from books to furniture. (Let’s face it, most of have too much junk in our houses anyway.) You can also cook over them in a pinch, and when the blizzard is howling around your house, a cup of hot chocolate tastes twice as good and restores the spirits.

Kerosene and propane heaters can also crank out the BTUs in an emergency but probably require ventilation (check the manufacturer’s literature for specifics).

A key to keeping warm with these back-up heat sources is not to try to heat the entire shelter. Gather everything you think you might need into a single space and close it off. Use any blankets you can spare over openings, if necessary to reduce drafts. Gather together under your comforters and share your body heat.

If you find yourself in open terrain, a snow cave will provide good shelter. Find a drift and burrow a tunnel into the side for about 60 cm (24 in) then build your chamber. The entrance of the tunnel should lead to the lowest level of you chamber where the cooking and storage of equipment will be. A minimum of two ventilating holes are necessary, preferably one in the roof and one in the door.

Extreme Heat

Prepare ahead of time for the hottest days that may come. Freeze gallons of water in big blocks of ice if you have a large freezer (like we discussed in the previous chapters). Refilling plastic gallon water bottles with tap water and freezing works well. The larger the blocks of ice you have the longer they will take to melt when you need them so go for gallon size containers if you have the freezer space. These blocks of ice can be used to cool a fragile person by placing on a thick towel in a shallow pan and fanning the air with a hand held fan over the ice and over the persons head and neck area. They can also be used by wrapping them in a pillow case and placing them around the head, in the armpit area, and in the groin area. Be extremely cautious not to allow the ice to contact the skin. Place several layers of material between the skin and ice to prevent frostbite and check every few minutes to make sure you are not freezing the tissue.

Symptoms of dehydration

It is very important to recognize the first dehydration symptoms and act before your state becomes serious. Described below are the most common first symptoms of dehydration:


Dark urine with a very strong odor

Low urine output

Emotional instability

Delayed capillary refill in fingernail beds

Loss of skin elasticity

Trench line down center of tongue


Avoid overheating

When you overheat, your body starts to sweat. This may be good because naturally the body is trying to cool itself, but overtime too much sweat wastes your precious water supply. Always adjust your clothing so that you don’t sweat too much. Open your jacket a little bit or remove an inner layer of your clothing.

Wear loose clothes

Do not expose your body directly to the sun

Protect your head

Find time to rest under a shaded area

If you’re wearing your clothes too tight you may restrict blood circulation. It can also decrease the volume of air between the layers, which reduces the cooling value.

Solar Radiation

On Earth, solar radiation is obvious as daylight when the sun is above the horizon. This is during daytime, and also in summer near the poles at night, but not at all in winter near the poles. When the direct radiation is not blocked by clouds, it is experienced as sunshine, combining the perception of bright white light (sunlight in the strict sense) and warming. The warming on the body and surfaces of other objects is distinguished from the increase in air temperature.

Increased solar rays could possibly happen here on Earth, and you need to do what ever necessary to stay out of the Sun during the day. If there is a possible Red/Brown Dwarf the solar ray can be amplified ten fold as the object gets closer to Earth.

So what do you do

Previously mentioned, make sure to stay out of direct sunlight, or if you feel immediate warming to your skin you need to seek cover. This will not protect you fully but lessen the amount of radiation you receive.

Seek your shelter; preferably a cave or underground structure will help with the defense

Put on your PPE if you need to venture out during the day (see the next chapter)

Polar Reversal/Shift

In the next few years, polar reversal will take place on earth. This could possibly mean that the North Pole will be changed into the South Pole and South to North. The science can only be explained by the fact that the earth will start rotating in the opposite direction, together with a huge disaster of unknown proportions. Or the poles could actually shift positions by a few miles which would still cause unwanted disasters.

See previous disasters which would be caused by this shift (minus the asteroids)

Riot/Civil Disaster

After a disaster, you may have to protect your home and belongings from looters. Sure, they’ll probably march out the National Guard, but like the police, they can’t be everywhere all the time. Just as you are assuming responsibility for your survival by reading this guide, you’ll need to assume responsibility for protecting yourself from human predators.


A tsunami is a series of destructive and very dangerous waves that result from earthquake activity or some other type of underwater disturbance (meteorite, landslide, underwater volcanic activity etc.). In order to survive a tsunami, you must be prepared, vigilant, and calm.

Your at risk if:

Your home, school, or workplace is in a coastal region, near the sea

The elevation of your home, school or workplace is at sea level or fairly low and on flat

or only slightly elevated land. If you don’t know the elevation level of your home, school or workplace, find out

There are warning signs indicating that your area is prone to tsunamis

Your home, school, workplace etc. buildings are not tsunami resistant

Prepare in advance. If your research demonstrates that you are at risk, prepare both an evacuation plan and your survival stash.

Natural warnings can help to indicate the imminent arrival of a tsunami. Be aware that in many cases, these may be the only warnings you will get in the coming years. Be self-responsible and keep you and your family, friends and colleagues safe. Natural signs that herald the possibility of a coming tsunami include:

An earthquake: If you live in a coastal zone (by the sea), the occurrence of an earthquake should be immediate cause for alarm and evasive action.

Rumbling under the ground: Even if there is no actual “earthquake” but you can perceive sizable rumbling under the ground, heed this warning.

A rapid rise and fall in coastal waters. If the sea suddenly recedes, leaving bare sand, this is a major warning sign that there is about to be a sudden surge of water inland.

Watch for animals leaving the area or behaving abnormally, such as trying to seek human shelter or grouping together in ways they would not normally do.

Take action

If a tsunami is likely to make landfall on your coastal region, react immediately. Put into place the Evacuation Plan.

Move immediate movement away from the coast, lagoons or other bodies of water next to the coast is essential.

Head inland: This means going up to higher ground and even into hills or mountains.

Climb high: If you cannot head inland because you are trapped, head up. Although not ideal, if this is your only option, choose a high, sturdy and solid building and climb up it. Go as high as you possibly can, even onto the roof or sturdy trees.

React quickly if you are stranded in the water. If you did not manage to evacuate but find yourself caught up in the tsunami, there are things that you can do to try and survive:

Grab onto something that floats

Abandon belongings

Keep away for at least half a day, if not longer. A tsunami comes in waves

Try to get reliable information

A good pre-planned emergency plan should account for this possibility and provide alternative routes. Go into survival mode and be prepared for anything else that could happen, do not let your guard down.

Electricity Shortage

We have lived without it in the past, and we can live without it now.

That is simple to say when we rely so heavily on the use of electricity. It just make our lives that much easier, so in the event of a disaster and after you have made it to a safe haven, it is time now to review the basics.

Generators are a good way to provide energy, but awfully hard to lug around and are dependant upon a natural resource that may or may not be readily available. So you should plan for the worst, break out the matches.

Alien Invasion

At the time this survival guide was written, there is no information on how to maintain your existence if alien invaders showed up to visit. With that said, 2012 Online recommends hiding.

Chapter 4: How To


The ability to construct and know how to make a fire can make the difference between life and death in a survival situation. Fire making is one of the most vital survival skills. You should practice and learn different methods so you know how to start a fire anywhere, and under any condition.

Several needs:

A fire can fulfill several needs. It can keep you warm and dry. You can use it to cook food, purify water and to sterilize bandages. It can scare away dangerous animals and its smoke can keeps flying insects at bay.

To make a fire you have to understand that there are three components needed: air, heat and fuel. The correct ratio of these components is very important for a fire to burn at its greatest capability


You will have to decide what site and arrangement to use. Before building a fire consider:

The area (terrain and climate) in which you are operating

The materials and tools available

Time: how much time you have

Need: why you need a fire

Security: do you want unwanted attention

Look for a dry spot that:

Is protected from the wind

Is suitably placed in relation to your shelter (if any)

Will concentrate the heat in the direction you desire

Has a supply of wood or other fuel available

If you are in a wooded or brush-covered area, clear the brush and scrape the surface soil from the spot you have selected. Clear a circle at least 1 meter in diameter so there is little chance of the fire spreading. If time allows, construct a fire wall using logs or rocks. This wall will help to reflector direct the heat where you want it. It will also reduce flying sparks and cut down on the amount of wind blowing into the fire. However, you will need enough wind to keep the fire burning. In some situations, you may find that an underground fireplace will best meet your needs. It conceals the fire and serves well for cooking food. To make an underground fireplace:

Dig a hole in the ground.

On the upwind side of this hole, poke or dig a large connecting hole for ventilation.

Build your fire in the hole


Use a battery to generate a spark. Use of this method depends on the type of battery available. Attach a wire to each terminal. Touch the ends of the bare wires together next to the tinder so the sparks will ignite it.

Flint and Steel

The direct spark method is the easiest of the primitive methods to use. The flint and steel method is the most reliable of the direct spark methods. Strike a flint or other hard, sharp-edged rock edge with a piece of carbon steel (stainless steel will not produce a good spark). This method requires a loose-jointed wrist and practice. When a spark has caught in the tinder, blow on it. The spark will spread and burst into flames.


The fire-plow is a friction method of ignition. You rub a hardwood shaft against a softer wood base. To use this method, cut a straight groove in the base and plow the blunt tip of the shaft up and down the groove. The plowing action of the shaft pushes out small particles of wood fibers. Then, as you apply more pressure on each stroke, the friction ignites the wood particles.


If you find yourself not around any structures or your survival shelter, or if it’s not safe, a temporary shelter may be raised up in the wilderness. A small shelter which is insulated from the bottom, protected from the elements and contains a fire is extremely important in your survival situation. Before building your shelter be sure that the surrounding area provides the materials needed to build a good fire, and a good water source.

Wilderness shelters may include:

1. Natural shelters such as caves and overhanging cliffs. When exploring a possible shelter tie a piece of string to the outer mouth of the cave to ensure you will be able to find your way out. Keep in mind that these caves may already be occupied. If you do use a cave for shelter, build your fire near its mouth to prevent animals from entering.

2. Enlarge the natural pit under a fallen tree and line it with bark or tree boughs

3. Near a rocky coastal area, build a rock shelter in the shape of a U, covering the roof with driftwood and a tarp or even seaweed for protection

First Aid

If an accident occurs in the wilderness it will be your responsibility to deal with the situation. The specific sequence of actions when dealing with this situation is:

Remain calm, providing your patient with quiet, efficient first aid treatment

Keep the person warm and lying down. Do not move this injured person until you have discovered the extent of the injuries

Start mouth-to-mouth resuscitation immediately if the injured person is not breathing

Stop any bleeding

Watch carefully for signs of shock

Check for cuts, fractures, breaks and injuries to the head, neck or spine

Do not allow people to crowd the injured person

Do not remove clothing unless it is imperative

Decide if the person can be moved to a proper medical facility. If this is not possible, prepare a suitable living area in which shelter, heat and food are provided


Shock is a depression of all of the body processes and may follow any injury regardless of how minor. Factors such as hemorrhage, cold and pain will intensify shock. When experiencing shock the patient will feel weak and may faint. The skin becomes cold and clammy and the pulse, weak and rapid. Shock can be more serious than the injury itself.

Use the following method to prevent and control shock:

1. If there are no head or chest injuries, place the patient on his/her back with the head and chest lower than the legs. This will help the blood circulate to the brain, heart, lungs and other major organs.

2. If severe head and chest injuries are present elevate the upper body. If chest injuries are present, elevate the injured side to assist in the functioning of the uninjured lung.

3. If the injured person becomes unconscious, place him/her in a face down position to prevent choking on blood, vomit or the tongue.

4. Keep your patient warm and under shelter.

Stopped Breathing

If breathing has stopped, begin mouth-to-mouth resuscitation. Place the patient on his/her back and follow these steps:

1. To open the airway lift the person’s neck and tilt the head back

2. Keep the neck elevated; pinch the nostrils to prevent air leakage

3. Place your mouth completely around the person

Credit To: http://www.articlesbase.com/environment-articles/2012-survival-guide-512668.html


Rest Of Info : http://ending2012.wordpress.com/survivaltips/

How to survive in a situation when some major crisis occurs and leave everybody without electricity for months or even years?

The electricity has only been a common household item in the last 50 or so years. Before that, people have survived for ages – so a lack of electricity for any duration of time is something that can be overcome. But for most modern Americans, the loss of power means the complete loss of normalcy. Their lifestyle is so dependent upon the grid’s constancy that they do not know how to function without it. How do you cook a meal if your gas stove has an electric ignition? How do you keep warm if your wood heat is moved through ducts by an electric fan? What do you do with a freezer full of expensive meat? How do you find out what is happening in your area with the TV and radio silent? What will you drink if your water comes from a system dependent on electrical pumps?


These are questions that both the Red Cross and Federal Emergency Management Agency are asking people to seriously consider.
There are five primary areas that are easily disrupted if the power goes off. Each of these is critical to daily survival, as well, so when making preparations for emergencies keep these in mind. In order of importance, they are:
light, water, cooking, heating/cooling, and communication.

It wasn’t too long ago that people were active during the day and simply went to sleep when the sun went down. Candlelight dinners were the norm. So
candlesor oil lamps and matches are one option. Stock up on oil and have enough candles to get you through the catastrophic event. However they are limited in quantity. After doomsdays in 2012 you probably will need to learn how to make candles or lamps by yourself from the natural products.
Another option is to purchase a couple of
solar or mechanically powered torches. For example, solar powered lamps. They are typically small fluorescents, and can be run off of battery systems. It may take more than one day of bright sunlight to recharge these lamps, so you may need several—one to use, while others are recharging. The light is white and clear, good for area-lighting, and rather difficult to read by. Have extra fluorescent bulbs on hand, too.
If you have a rainwater tank, no electricity means that pumps would not work to bring the water to your tap. Sure, having a generator would be handy for a few days, or as long as you have fuel. The easiest way to guarantee quality water is to
store it. The important question is: how much? Both Red Cross and FEMA suggest a minimum of one gallon per day per person. This is an absolute minimum, and covers only your real drinking and cooking needs; bathing is out of the question. Another question is: how to get fresh water then the storage is empty? You will need to find a source of water (it must be filtered and purified before use).
You could quite easily cook a meal using a little portable
gas stove – either a barbeque style apparatus. But you’d obviously need gas. Outdoor cooking of all kinds, including grilling and barbecuing, all work during surviving situations, provided you have the charcoal or wood (and matches!) needed to get the heat going. Never use these devices in a confined space, as they emit carbon monoxide!
Not having electricity brings the added difficulty of food storage. The old time refrigerator is a round hole three feet deep. Dig it in your yard (or special place in your bunker) line it with plastic and place a hard cover over it. This hole will keep food from spoiling due to its lower temperature. Most foods would have to be non-perishable, pantry items. For meats you could salt and dry them (also the life important skills after doomsdays 2012  ). You could plant some fruit trees and grow your own vegetables (& herbs).
Heating and cooling
All of the heaters obviously need fuel. It can be
woodstoves, propane heaters, kerosene heaters…
One of the most efficient ways to heat is something else we have forgotten in the past 50 years—close off rooms that are not being used. You can minimize the heat lost in the closed room (or bunker) so you actually wouldn’t use that much fuel on heating. 
Solar heat can be “grabbed” anytime the light from the sun hits your house. Even in the dead of winter, the south-facing walls will feel noticeably warmer than the shaded north-facing ones. You can “store” the sun’s heat in any surface. Ceramic floor tiles, for instance, are excellent at retaining heat. So will a flat-black painted covered plastic trash can filled with water. If these surfaces are exposed to sunlight, say, indoors next to a south-facing window, they will absorb heat during the day. At night, with the window curtains closed, the surface will release heat slowly and steadily into the house.

It would be very hard to maintain the communication between a large numbers
How_to_survive_2012_radio.jpg of people simultaneously without electricity after doomsdays of 2012. Communication relates to our phones, cell phones, televisions and the internet. Radios would be the primary source of communication, as they were before television. There are some radios that you can buy which rely on solar or mechanically generated power to operate.

How To Survive An Earthquake-

•    Most quake-related injuries and deaths caused by falling objects, collapsing walls and flying glass. That’s why even before earthquake happen look around your house for things that could fall or move. Do you have heavy furniture that could topple over, such as bookcases, hanging plants or pictures and mirrors that might fall? Find dangerous spots and safe zones in your own house.
Define Your Safety Zone: against inside walls, under sturdy tables or desks, in stout doorways.
•    Anchor heavy appliances and furniture such as water heaters, refrigerators and bookcases.
•    Store flammable liquids away from potential ignition sources such as water heaters, stoves and furnaces.
•    Stock up on emergency supplies. These include: battery operated radio (and extra batteries), flashlights (and extra batteries), first aid kit, bottled water, two weeks food and medical supplies, blankets, cooking fuel, tools needed to turn off your gas, water and electric utilities.
•    All family members should know how to turn off gas, water, and electricity. Make sure that your family members know safe spots in the house and emergency procedures.
•    Create a family disaster plan. Discuss with your family the types of disasters that could occur. Explain to your kids how to prepare and respond to each type of disaster.

During the Earthquake:
•    If you are indoors, stay there. Quickly move to a safe location in the room such as under a strong desk, a strong table, or along an interior wall. Stay away from anything that could conceivably fall on you. Stay clear of windows, fireplaces, or appliances if a quake hits; stay out of the kitchen – it’s a dangerous place. Don’t run downstairs or rush outside while the building is shaking, or while there is a danger of falling or being hit by falling glass or debris.
•    If you are outside, stand away from buildings, trees, telephones and electrical lines.  Move to an open area where falling objects are unlikely to strike you.
•    If you are driving, slow down smoothly and stop on the side of the road. Stay in vehicle.  Avoid stopping on or under bridges and overpasses, or under power lines, trees and large signs. If you are in a mountainous area watch out for falling rock, landslides, trees, and other debris that could be loosened by quakes.
After the Earthquake:
•    Check for injuries; attend to injuries if needed, help ensure the safety of people around you. If a person is bleeding, put direct pressure on the wound and use clean gauze, or cloth if available. If a person is not breathing administer CPR. Do not attempt to move seriously injured persons unless they are in further danger of injury. Cover the wounded with blankets to keep them warm. Seek medical help for serious injuries.
•    Wear sturdy shoes to avoid injury from broken glass and debris.
•    Check for damage. If your building is badly damaged you should leave it until it has been inspected by a safety professional. Leave the area if you smell gas or fumes from other chemicals.
•    If the power is out, unplug major appliances to prevent possible damage when the power is turned back on. If you see sparks, frayed wires, or smell hot insulation turn off electricity at the main fuse box or breaker. If you will have to step in water to turn off the electricity you should call a professional to turn it off for you.
Also, be prepared for aftershocks. They are strong enough to topple more buildings, sever utility lines and hurt you hours, days, weeks – even months after the main quake. If your house is in solid shape, stay indoors if an aftershock hits.
Do not:
Do not turn on the gas and Do not use matches (lighters, camp stoves, barbecues, electrical equipment or any appliances) until you are sure there are no gas leaks.
Do not expect firefighters, police or paramedics to definitely be there for you. They may not be available.
Do not use your telephone, except for a medical or fire emergency. You could tie up the lines needed for emergency response.
You never know when an earthquake is going to happen. The best you can do is to prepare yourself and your family before the tragedy comes to your house.


Surviving mega tsumis PART1:

In this article we are going to look at eyewitness accounts from survivors and some survival tips that luckily will help somebody to survive mega-tsunami in Dec 2012.

tsunami-2012-year-survive-Waves-mountain2_1.pngThe largest recorded tsunami was a wave 1720 feet tall in Lituya Bay, Alaska. The force of the wave removed all trees and vegetation from elevations as high as 1720 feet (524 meters) above sea level.
This picture shows wave damage at about seven miles (11.3 kilometers) from where the wave was originated.

Millions of trees were uprooted and swept away by the wave. This is the highest wave that has ever been known. There were human witnesses to the catastrophic event. Unfortunately, one of the boats was close to shore and the huge waves overtook it killing the two people on board. Amazingly, the other two boats “rode” the tidal waves as they washed from the source of the landslide and resonated around the bay, like water sloshing in a wash basin.

Eyewitness Accounts from Survivors
(As reported by Don J. Miller in United States Geological Survey Professional Paper 354-C, Giant Waves in Lituya Bay, Alaska, 1960)
Account of Howard G. Ulrichtsunami_2012_year_survive_1.png
Mr. Ulrich and his 7-year-old son, on the Edrie, entered Lituya Bay about 8:00 p.m. and anchored in about 5 fathoms of water in a small cove on the south shore. Ulrich was awakened by the violent rocking of the boat, noted the time, and went on deck to watch the effects of the earthquake-described as violent shaking and heaving, followed by avalanching in the mountains at the head of the bay. An estimated 2 1/2 minutes after the earthquake was first felt a deafening crash was heard at the head of the bay. According to Ulrich,
“The wave definitely started in Gilbert Inlet, just before the end of the quake. It was not a wave at first. It was like an explosion, or a glacier sluff. The wave came out of the lower part, and looked like the smallest part of the whole thing. The wave did not go up 1,800 feet, the water splashed there.”
Ulrich continued to watch the progress of the wave until it reached his boat about 2 1/2 to 3 minutes after it was first sighted. Being unable to get the anchor loose, he let out all of the chain (about 40 fathoms) and started the engine. Midway between the head of the bay and Cenotaph Island the wave appeared to be a straight wall of water possibly 100 feet high, extending from shore to shore. The wave was breaking as it came around the north side of the island, but on the south side it had a smooth, even crest. As it approached the Edrie the wave front appeared very steep, and 50 to 75 feet high. No lowering or other disturbance of the water around the boat, other than vibration due to the earthquake, was noticed before the wave arrived. The anchor chain snapped as the boat rose with the wave. The boat was carried toward and probably over the south shore, and then, in the backwash, toward the center of the bay. The wave crest seemed to be only 25 to 50 feet wide, and the back slope less steep than the front.
tsunami_2012_year_survive_Waves_mountain1.pngAfter the giant wave passed the water surface returned to about normal level, but was very turbulent, with much sloshing back and forth from shore to shore and with steep, sharp waves up to 20 feet high. These waves, however, did not show any definite movement either toward the head or the mouth of the bay. After 25 to 30 minutes the bay became calm, although floating logs covered the water near the shores and were moving out toward the center and the entrance. After the first giant wave passed Ulrich managed to keep the boat under control, and went out the entrance at 11:00 p.m. on what seemed to be a normal ebb flow.

Account of William A. Swanson
Mr. and Mrs. Swanson on the Badger entered Lituya Bay about 9:00 p.m., first going in as far as Cenotaph Island and then returning to Anchorage Cove on the north shore near the entrance, to anchor in about 4 fathoms of water. Mr. Swanson was wakened by violent vibration of the boat, and noted the time on the clock in the pilot house. A little more than a minute after the shaking was first felt, but probably before the end of the earthquake, Swanson looked toward the head of the bay, past the north end of Cenotaph Island and saw what he thought to be the Lituya Glacier, which had “risen in the air and moved forward so it was in sight. * * * It seemed to be solid, but was jumping and shaking * * * Big cakes
tsunami_2012_year_survive_Waves_mountain_.png of ice were falling off the face of it and down into the water.” After a little while “the glacier dropped back out of sight and there was a big wall of water going over the point” (the spur southwest of Gilbert Inlet). Swanson next noticed the wave climb up on the south shore near Mudslide Creek. As the wave passed Cenotaph Island it seemed to be about 50 feet high near the center of the bay and to slope up toward the sides. It passed the island about 2 1/2 minutes after it was first sighted, and reached the Badger about 11/2 minutes later. No lowering or other disturbance of the water around the boat was noticed before the wave arrived.
The Badger, still at anchor, was lifted up by the wave and carried across La Chaussee Spit, riding stern first just below the crest of the wave, like a surfboard. Swanson looked down on the trees growing on the spit, and believes that he was about 2 boat lengths (more than 80 feet) above their tops. The wave crest broke just outside the spit and the boat hit bottom and foundered some distance from the shore. Looking back 3 to 4 minutes after the boat hit bottom Swanson saw water pouring over the spit, carrying logs and other debris. He does not know whether this was a continuation of the wave that carried the boat over the spit or a second wave. Mr. and Mrs. Swanson abandoned their boat in a small skiff, and were picked up by another fishing boat about 2 hours later.
This information could save your life in case of megatsunami in Dec 2012. Share this knowledge with your relatives and friends; tell them about the possible global danger in 2012. It could save their lives as well! The second part of this article includes Tsunami Survival Tips.

Surviving a tsnumi PART 2:

First of all be aware of tsunami facts. This knowledge could save your life in case of megatsunami in Dec 2012 or in case of any disaster.

Develop an evacuation plan: an evacuation plan must be prepared in advance to be of use. In developing one, consider your family, your workplace, your school and your wider community. If you are at home and hear there is a tsunami warning, you should make sure you entire family is aware of the warning.
Move! Move in an orderly, calm and safe manner to the evacuation site or to any safe place outside your evacuation zone. Follow the advice of local emergency and law enforcement authorities. Never go down to the beach to watch for a tsunami!


Tsunamis can move faster than a person can run. If you are at the beach or near the ocean and you feel the earth shake, move immediately to higher ground.
DO NOT wait for a tsunami warning to be announced. Stay away from rivers and streams that lead to the ocean as you would stay away from the beach and ocean if there is a tsunami. A regional tsunami from a local earthquake could strike some areas before a tsunami warning could be announced. Tsunamis generated in distant locations will generally give people enough time to move to higher ground. For locally generated tsunamis, where you might feel the ground shake, you may only have a few minutes to move to higher ground. A tsunami is not a single wave, but a series of waves.tsunami_2012_year_survive_city.jpg
Approaching large tsunamis are usually accompanied by
a loud roar that sounds like a train or aircraft. If a tsunami arrives at night when you cannot see the ocean, this is also nature’s tsunami warning and should be heeded. A small tsunami at one beach can be a giant a few miles away.The upper floors of these hotels can provide a safe place to find refuge should there be a tsunami warning and you cannot move quickly inland to higher ground.
Homes and small buildings located in low lying coastal areas are not designed to withstand tsunami impacts. Do not stay in these structuresshould there be a tsunami warning. Offshore reefs and shallow areas may help break the force of tsunami waves, but large and dangerous waves can still be threat to coastal residents in these areas. Staying away from all low-lying coastal areas is the safest advice when there is a tsunami warning.tsunami_2012_year_survive_dec.gif
Climb a sturdy tree. As a very last resort, if you find yourself trapped and unable to move inland or climb a high building, find a strong and tall tree and climb up it as high as you can. There is a risk of trees being dragged under by the tsunami, however, so this really is a measure to be used only if all other alternatives have been rendered useless. The stronger the tree, the higher it will allow you to climb and the sturdier its branches for resting on (you may be there for hours) and the better chances you will have of surviving.
React quickly if you are caught up in the water. If you did not manage to evacuate but find yourself caught up in the tsunami for one reason or another, there are things that you can do to try and survive: take something that floats. Use a floating object as a raft to keep you above the water. Items that float such as tree trunks, doors, fishing equipment etc. may be in the water with you.

Share this knowledge with your relatives and friends. Teach children to recognize the signs of an impending tsunami. Think how to prepare yourself and survive the very possible global catastrophe in 2012. The begining of the post is here “How to Survive Mega Tsunami in Dec 2012 – Part 1″


What is a gloabal flood?

Megatsunami (often hyphenated as mega-tsunami, also known as iminami or “wave of purification”) is an informal term used to describe a very large tsunami wave beyond the typical size reached by most tsunamis (usually around 10 m).
A mega tsunami is a huge wave starting from over 40 meters (131 feet) up to giants over 100 meters (328 ft) tall. Note that the waves are often much higher when they meet land, as the water often floods upwards from the force of impact.
Mega tsunamis may be
caused by rock fall and landslide phenomena, explosive volcanic events, or meteor impacts. Underwater earthquakes do not normally generate such large tsunamis; typically tsunamis caused by earthquakes (such as the 2004 Indian Ocean earthquake) have a height of less than ten meters at the shore (depending on how much water was displaced by the earthquake and on various natural factors such as tree cover and the general shore characteristics) but can affect thousands of kilometers of coastline and reach many kilometers inland.


A lot has been said about the catastrophe upon us in 2012 and what the likely effects of it will be. But where can we hide to withstand the Polar Reversal, the mega-tsunamis, the solar radiation, nuclear destruction, earthquakes and volcanoes?

We are talking about safe zones on our planet during the Polar Shift in Dec 2012. The second location we are going to look at is Europe.

The Mediterranean, as with any inland lake or sea, will not be exempt from the sloshing to and fro that occurs when the crust of the Earth shifts. The tidal waves may not reach the height of a wave that travels across the Pacific, but to those being washed over, this is scarce comfort. Where the inland lake or sea lies over a fault line, the change of waves generated by a sudden drop in the sea floor is also present. Thus, the Mediterranean will present those along its shores with the same precarious state as those along the Atlantic or other oceans.

Anticipate being at least 4500 feet (1500 meters) above sea level and even when 100 miles (160 miles) from shore, to be safe, and where near active or even inactive volcanoes, anticipate that exploding volcanoes will not be a safe place to be when attempting to escape tidal waves.
From nuclear danger perspective Europe is one of the most dangerous locations on the planet (see the picture of nuclear facilities below). Europe has extensive arsenal of nuclear facilities and several volcanoes as well.
The climate will also shift dramatically so even if one would survive, it probably wouldn’t be for a long time before food and extreme cold weather claims the lives of most survivors.
The good news is that Europeans do have some areas that are safer than others and those are reachable by road unlike some other safe areas in lesser developed countries. One of those safe locations is the Sierra Nevada, the southern mountain range known today for its most southern ski point in Europe. Downsides are that most peaks and higher areas are either popular ski resorts which are very expensive to acquire larger pieces of land and for the majority of non-ski resort areas, the government declared it as nature preserves. This makes it hard to make the due preparations of infrastructure and stockpile reserves in advance.
Currently we have a survival group that is working around the clock and against the clock to establish a sustainable survival scenario. We encourage you to take part in such activities if you are expecting to live on and help maintain the human race on this planet. Please do
contact us and we’ll be happy to direct you to the place to obtain all information.

__________________________Safe zones Africa________________________________

safe-zones-2012-dec-africa_1.jpgIt is possible that a Polar Shift is going to take place in Dec 2012. The question is where will you be in case it happens?

Let’s talk about safe zones on our planet during the Polar Shift at Dec 2012. First continent we are going to look at is Africa.

Africa known as a most stable continent and this has been proven throughout the existence of the planet. Just open a world atlas and find the evolution of the global landmasses. This will quickly teach you that this continent has shifted the least of all continents, which can easily be attributed to the low number of vault lines and volcanoes present.
The entire African continent, with the exception of some coastal areas or deep river valleys, will remain above sea level even after the poles have melted. This would seem to place it in an enviable situation, especially in light of the moderate temperate climate the entire continent will enjoy in the new geography.
With very few volcanoes and only one nuclear reactor (Cape Town, South Africa).  But most transportation of supplies and infrastructural elements will have to be done by road. Roads are in most places hardly developed and put extra stress on getting ready in time for the 2012 events. In some countries additional political instability or even civil wars can make it impossible to even acquire or develop land to be suitable for survival.Survive__nuclear_danger_africa.jpg

Plagues similar to the Ebola virus will spread, under the influence of the continuous rains and drizzle that run for decades after the Polar shift, to all parts of Africa, stopped only by the seashore. The Ebola virus and its cousins live in swamps, passed among the creatures that live there, and these creatures will find all of Africa to their liking during this continuous wet season.

Where the earthquakes that devastate cities in industrial countries will have little effect on the primitive structures most Africans call home, crop failure will drive survivors to eat what they can find, and these meals will infect them. Soon all but a tiny fraction of the populace, those with natural immunity to Ebola type viruses, will be gone.

However nothing is impossible as long as you choose the right destination. Time is not on our side, which this time is more relevant than ever before. Currently we have a survival group that is working around the clock and against the clock to establish a sustainable survival scenario. We encourage you to take part in such activities if you are expecting to live on and help maintain the human race on this planet. Please do contact us and we’ll be happy to direct you to the place to obtain all information.


What is going to happen in Dec 2012? Pole shift is one of the plausible scenarios to the end of the world in 2012 which is supported by scientific proof (scientific base, full survival guide and survival tips you can get from books here HOW TO SURVIVE 2012”, “THE WORLD CATACLYSM IN 2012”, “THE ORION PROPHECY”)

so, what is going to happen with our planet in case of polar shift?

1. The Rotation of the Earth is going to stop

Prior to the shift, the Earth slows in its rotation, and actually stops. Thus, the Atlantic lava beds are gripped, facing the Sun, facing the approaching planet coming up from the South along the rift, and causing both Europe, the Americas, and Africa to be on the long day side of the Earth.


2. Atlantic Stretch

Atlantic has clearly been stretched and ripped in the past. During the week of rotation stoppage, however, this is extreme, so that the Atlantic Rift is under a great deal of tension

and the shorelines are drawn down along both sides of the Atlantic. Europe and Africa are continually pulled eastward, by the rotating core. Thus, the Earth moans in her agony, during this week.

3. Pacific Compression

Along the Pacific Rim, plates are being pushed under the Americas, and creating distress in Indonesia as compression of the Pacific is already in process from prior pole shifts and sub ducting plates are inclined to continue this momentum.

  • · The Himalayas, driven high from sea bed material in the past, also show a point of drama, already scripted for India and Australia by past dramas which positioned these plates thus.
  • · Quakes all along the west coast of the Americas increase
  • · Volcanic activity in Japan and Indonesia become extreme.
  • · India shutters, jerking under the Himalayas in spurts, creating great panic among her peoples who are already fearing the worst with the long evening they are experiencing.
  • · Tidal waves are not yet a problem, as the waters normally pooling around the equator have equalized around the globe, more water at the pole and less in the equatorial regions.

4. Red Dust and Hail

The dusting with red dust should be considered a warning to take cover, under metal or sod roof structures, out of the wind. The shift cannot be more than a few hours away. The dusting with red dust occurs less than 24 hours, and most likely less than 12 hours. The tail sweep will then proceed from red dust to hail stones just ahead of the shift. A normal roof would protect from the hail stones, which will be like the hail experienced during violent windstorms, where hail of ice falls and ruins crop.

5. Pole Shift

There is a great deal of tension that builds between the crust of the Earth and the core of the Earth during the week of rotation stoppage. This tension is released when the core of the Earth breaks with the crust, and moves. However, the core of the Earth drags the crust with it. The pole shift is therefore sudden, taking place in what seems to be minutes to humans involved in the drama, but which actually takes place during the better part of an hour. There are stages, between which the human spectators, in shock, are numb.

1) At first there is a vibration of sorts, a jiggling, as the crust separates in various places from the core.

2) Then there is a Slide, where the crust is dragged, over minutes, to a new location, along with the core.

3) During the slide, tidal waves move over the Earth along the coast lines, as the water is not attached and can move independently. The water tends to stay where it is, the crust moving under it, essentially.

4) When the core finds itself aligned, it churns about somewhat, settling, but the crust, more solid and in motion, proceeds on. This is in fact where mountain building and massive earthquakes occur, just as car crashes do their damage on the point of impact, when motion must stop.

to continue “pole shift impact on earth in dec 2012 – part 2

More information about December 2012, the end of the world and how to survive global catastrophe in 2012 you can find here


______________________________________-Pole shift part 2

So, what is going to happen after actual Polar Shift in Dec 2012? 1. Hurricane Winds

During the shift, the atmosphere of the Earth does several things, all at once. It drags along with the Earth. It moves as a mass, pushing on air in other places. Thus, even in those places on the Earth which are not moving, during the shift, being pivot points, the air is turbulent. It swirls, as circular motion in air masses is the response to conflicting forces, as seen in the circular motion of tornadoes and hurricanes. One should not assume a force of winds above what the world experiences today. Your hurricanes and typhoons represent what occurs when air masses attempt to move against each other, given their density and gravity attraction and inertia. These same factors are in place, are predominant, during the pole shift. Stay below the Earth’s surface, lie low, and tie down everything you wish to find when it’s over.

2. Earthquakes

Tearing of continents is less traumatic than it would seem to humans, who imagine the continents as one plate and think of how lumber resists being torn, metal bends and twists before tearing, and a rope of fibers resists while the fibers snap one by one. Continents are in fact an overlay of many plates, and faults are where most of the plates have fractured in the same place. The continents are attached because some of the plates have not fractured. Thus, ripping apart of continents is no more traumatic than sub ducting or slip-sliding. The land along the edges generally retains its altitude, as this was determined by the thickness of the plates, thus its boyancy on the sea of lava. Solid land is composed to a great degree from the lighter elements, which rose to the top during the early cooling of planet Earth, and thus formed the floating crust. Mountain Building occurs during rapid subduction of one plate under another. There is friction between the plates, so that crinkling of the upper plate occurs. This crinkling represents pressure and release, which can result in violent jerking and upheavals, sometimes snapping to create new cliffs or jutting rock. Those riding on the upper plate during these moment will be heaved skyward and dashed, with scarcely a safe place to cling to. Subduction can release pressure by pushing flakes of land that separate from lower stratas forward. This thrust can be sudden and projectile, with the rock flake then crashing down again. Pressure and release can also create crumpling land where such activity is not expected. Compressed rock can also drive horizontally, into nearby soil or space not occupied by anything as dense as itself. Thus, those in a valley can find rock shooting out of a hillside, or rock spears shooting under their feet, unexpectedly. Surviving the mountain building process while in the mountains is precarious, and not advised.

3. Firestorms

During the comet’s passage, there is such an onslaught to the Earth’s upper atmosphere that the available oxygen in places is completely consumed. Heated gas in the comet’s tail form petrol chemicals due to the flashes of lightning and intense heat due to passage over open volcanoes, and these petro carbons rain down, a sheet of flame falling to Earth. With the atmosphere scattered, these petrol chemicals descend close to the surface of the Earth before bursting into flame. A fire storm, killing all beneath it. All this has been reported in ancient times, as humans observed accompaniments to the cataclysms. This type of activity sets forests afire. Where vegetation regrows, from seeds and roots, many areas will nevertheless be denuded of vegetation for some time.

4. Flood Tide

During a pole shift, the ocean as a whole is on the move because it stays behind while the crust moves, and thus rolls up on land onto the coastline being pulled under it. This is a flood tide, with the lip of the water being its highest point, rising like a silent tide endlessly on the rise, the wave rolling inland without a crashing back and forth, just a steady progressive inundation. To those at the mercy of such a flood tide, their first thought is to climb above the tide. Soon they are standing on the highest point they can reach, and still the water, flowing inland steadily, rises. Afloat on a boat or flotsam, they will be dragged inland with the flow until a reverse slosh begins, the water flowing back into its bed but in the nature of water during a slosh, overshooting this other side so that both sides of the ocean experience this flood tide, alternately, for some days until the momentum diminishes. When the flood tide recedes, those afloat are in danger of being dragged far out to sea with the flow, as the water will rush to its bed unevenly, more rapidly where it can recede the fastest.

Where tidal waves meet mountains, this can result in tidal bore up ravines. Where tidal waves flow inland, this results in a flood tide going hundreds of miles inland. Where the Atlantic widens and tears apart the North American continent along what is already her sea-way, there will be more places for the water to pool than water available, and this will cause a rushing toward this part of the globe by water gathered at the poles. There will be a temporary lowering of water in the Indian Ocean, which will draw water from where it has gathered at the South Pole. Where the Pacific shortens dramatically, the water in the Pacific will find its bowl suddenly smaller, and will rise along shores on both sides. Given the size of this ocean, and the ability of her waters to rush over low-lying areas in Central America or around Australia, tidal waves along the Pacific coast are not substantially larger than along other coasts.

If you are interested in information what is going to happen in Dec 2012, Pole shift, the end of the world in 2012, get scientific base and full survival guide

____________________survival zones in cananda————-

Most of Canada fares rather well during or after the coming pole shift, and depending upon its altitude will fare better after the pole shift than before, due to the climate changes. Canada in the main is not criss-crossed with earthquake faults of active volcanoes, and thus suffers less from the direct effects of earthquakes and exploding volcanoes during the pole shift.

Canada will be positioned above the equator in a temperate zone after the pole shift, in a warmer strata than at present.

The distance to nuclear facilities will prevent massive destruction as opposed to what its southern neighbor will experience. However, there will be some impact as radioactive particles will descend on its territory causing illness and other malicious symptoms.

Much of Canada has a low altitude which is at risk by the expected tidal wave which could reach 2 kilometers (1.25 miles) inundating and destroying most of what’s currently on the lowlands. Once that wave passes, chances are that the water level decreases all depending on the impact of the melting of the ice cap, now under the equatorial sun.  However, disregarding this tidal wave for a moment, when the Earth stops rotation, water slung toward the equator will drift toward the poles, creating serious inland flooding in land near the poles. After the shift, when the poles rapidly melt under the equatorial sun, melted water will move toward the point of least resistance, which may often be inland if blockages occur. In any case, if one examines the sea level of land in eastern or northern Canada, one can see that the land will not be above water when the poles have completely melted.

The Canadian Rockies have the biggest advantage during the coming pole shift, in that the portion of Pacific plate that will be forced under them during the shortening of the Pacific is less, overall, than the portion of plate to be thrust under further south, along the western coast of the US, for instance. Thus, only the land within 500 miles of the coast, in the Canadian Rockies, will experience subduction with consequent hot earth and the rock and roll of mountain building. Those living from 500 miles to 1,000 miles from the coast should anticipate adjustments, as subduction can release pressure by pushing flakes of land that separate from lower stratus forward. But if you would want to bet on surviving the cataclysm in Canada, the higher Rockies are still your best chance.

________________Survival zones in North america_____

A lot has been said about the catastrophe upon us in 2012 and what the likely effects of it will be. But where can we hide to withstand the Polar Reversal, the mega-tsunamis, the solar radiation, nuclear destruction, earthquakes and volcanoes?

We are talking about safe zones on our planet during the Polar Shift at Dec 2012. The third location we are going to look at is United States of America.

The mountains on the West Coast of the US in general will be hot and rugged, with much upheaval, during the shift. The Sierras have been created because of subduction of Pacific plates under the lighter land mass, and these matters are never a gentle process. Snapping, sudden jolts, and bouncing rock stratas reacting to a sudden release of pressure can be expected all along the Sierras. The mountains and valleys have been formed because of crumpling, horizontal pressure, and this will happen again during the forthcoming shift. What happens to rock when it is asked to compress, to fold? It breaks, and moves into the point of least resistance which is upward into the air. Thus, jutting peaks of sheer rock with the rock strata going almost vertical. It crumbles, with a jumble of rock rolling over each other as the mass is pushed upward.

Thus, anyone or anything on top of that spot will be subject to being ground up in the tumbling process. Compressed rock can also drive horizontally, into nearby soil or space not occupied by anything as dense as itself. Thus, those in a valley can find rock shooting out of a hillside, or rock spear shooting under their feet, unexpectedly.Surviving the mountain building process while in the mountains is precarious, and not advised.

As a result of the polar shift, Canada and a large part of the US will be under the pole circle (see images):
Polar Circle USA
Besides this,
Yellowstone houses a supervolcano which will erupt and cause massive destruction through lava covering large areas prior to the area being covered under ice.
Nuclear reactors will burst and melt causing a true nuclear Armageddon (see image of nuclear plants that will be affected):
Nuclear zones USA
United States overall has little optimistic outlook since the Earth’s axis in these parts of the world will undergo the biggest shift, resulting in phenomenal earthquakes and volcanic outbursts. So we will encounter a real doomsday scenario here.
However it is possible to survive if you stay at least 100 kilometers from volcanoes at an altitude of at least 3,000 meters.

Currently there is an official survival group that is working around the clock and against the clock to establish a sustainable survival scenario. We encourage you to take part in such activities if you are expecting to live on and help maintain the human race on this planet. Please do go visit NewGlobalTrust.org to obtain all information.

________________________________survival groups–

Three years ago, Patrick Geryl, in the age of 51, leave his job as a laboratory employee for a French oil company. He’d saved up just enough money to last him until December 2012. After that, he thought, he wouldn’t need it anyway.

He founded a “survival group” for on the same wave length people, aimed at living through the apocalypses he knows are coming.

He started gathering materials necessary to survive — water purifiers, wheelbarrows (with spare tires), dust masks and vegetable seeds. His list of survival goods runs 11 pages long.
That’s because Geryl truly believes in the end of the world in 2012. He points to the ancient Maya cyclical calendars, the longest of which last renewed itself approximately 5,125 years ago and is set to end again, supposedly with catastrophic consequences, in 2012. He speaks of the ancient Egyptians, who, he claims, saw 2012 as a year of great change too. And he points to science: NASA predicts a sharp increase in the number of sunspots and sun flares for 2012, he said, sure to cause electrical failures and satellite disruptions.
So what is going to happen?

•    a polar reversal will cause the north to become the south and the sun to rise in the west
•    shattering earthquakes
•    massive tidal waves
•    simultaneous volcanic eruptions
•    nuclear reactors will melt
•    buildings will crumble
•    a cloud of volcanic dust will block out the sun for 40 years
Only the prepared will survive, and not even all of them. Thousands of people worldwide seem to be preparing, in one way or another, for the end of days in
2012. Survival groups exist in Europe, Canada and the United States. Geryl and his Belgian and Dutch followers have similar intentions, though their plan will take them much farther from home. They are looking to buy a plot of land high up in African mountains, where they’ll be able to withstand the monstrous tidal waves and wait out the cloud of volcanic dust that they said would block out the sun.


The Mediterranean, as with any inland lake or sea, will not be exempt from the sloshing to and fro that occurs when the crust of the Earth shifts. The tidal waves may not reach the height of a wave that travels across the Pacific, but to those being washed over, this is scarce comfort. Where the inland lake or sea lies over a fault line, the change of waves generated by a sudden drop in the sea floor is also present. Thus, the Mediterranean will present those along its shores with the same precarious state as those along the Atlantic or other oceans.

Anticipate being at least 4500 feet (1500 meters) above sea level and even when 100 miles (160 miles) from shore, to be safe, and where near active or even inactive volcanoes, anticipate that exploding volcanoes will not be a safe place to be when attempting to escape tidal waves.
From nuclear danger perspective Europe is one of the most dangerous locations on the planet (see the picture of nuclear facilities below). Europe has extensive arsenal of nuclear facilities and several volcanoes as well.
The climate will also shift dramatically so even if one would survive, it probably wouldn’t be for a long time before food and extreme cold weather claims the lives of most survivors.
The good news is that Europeans do have some areas that are safer than others and those are reachable by road unlike some other safe areas in lesser developed countries. One of those safe locations is the Sierra Nevada, the southern mountain range known today for its most southern ski point in Europe. Downsides are that most peaks and higher areas are either popular ski resorts which are very expensive to acquire larger pieces of land and for the majority of non-ski resort areas, the government declared it as nature preserves. This makes it hard to make the due preparations of infrastructure and stockpile reserves in advance.
Currently we have a survival group that is working around the clock and against the clock to establish a sustainable survival scenario. We encourage you to take part in such activities if you are expecting to live on and help maintain the human race on this planet. Please do
contact us and we’ll be happy to direct you to the place to obtain all information.

———–Food shelter and water ect.
sprouts-1 lb of mung bean seed- 7 lbs of sprouts
Grains- shelf life of up to 15 years
bay leaves
oxygen obzorbers
wheat, honey, powered milk, peanut butter, salt, beans, navy, chili, lima, spilt pea, mung, lentils, soy.
SPROUTS- Alfifia, sunflower, mustard, rye, bean, dried peas, mung beans, soy beans lentils
COOKING FRYPAN BREAD: -1: C. flour- 1 t.Baking soda -1 t. salt- add 3 t. fat – add just enoguh water to moisen-form into cake on pan, for flapjacks add 1/2 C. milk and eggs instead of water.
# 8  SALT
–need nuts—
1/3 C. WATER
_______________________9 ways to make a fire________________________________________

There is a primal link between man and fire. Every man should know how to start one. A manly man knows how to start one without matches. It’s an essential survival skill. You never know when you’ll find yourself in a situation where you’ll need a fire, but you don’t have matches. Maybe your single engine plane goes down while you’re flying over the Alaskan wilderness, like the kid in Hatchet. Or perhaps you’re out camping and you lose your backpack in a tussle with a bear. It need not be something as dramatic at these situations-even extremely windy or wet conditions can render matches virtually uselessly. And whether or not you ever need to call upon these skills, it’s just damn cool to know you can start a fire, whenever and wherever you are.

Friction Based Fire Making

Friction based fire making is not for the faint of heart. It’s probably the most difficult of all the non-match based methods. There are different techniques you can use to make a fire with friction, but the most important aspect is the type of wood you use for the fire board and spindle.

The spindle is the stick you’ll use to spin in order to create the friction between it and the fireboard. If you create enough friction between the spindle and the fireboard, you can create an ember that can be used to create a fire. Cottonwood, juniper, aspen, willow, cedar, cypress, and walnut make the best fire board and spindle sets.

Before you can use wood to start a friction based fire, the wood must be bone dry. If the wood isn’t dry, you’ll have to dry it out first.

The Hand Drill

The hand drill method is the most primitive, the most primal, and the most difficult to do All you need is wood, tireless hands, and some gritty determination. Therefore, it’ll put more hair on your chest than any other method. Here’s how it’s done:

Build a tinder nest. Your tinder nest will be used to create the flame you get from the spark you’re about to create. Make a tinder nest out of anything that catches fire easily, like dry grass, leaves, and bark.

Make your notch. Cut a v-shaped notch into your fire board and make a small depression adjacent to it.

Place bark underneath the notch. The bark will be used to catch an ember from the friction between the spindle and fireboard.

Start spinning. Place the spindle into the depression on your fire board. Your spindle should be about 2 feet long for this to work properly. Maintain pressure on the board and start rolling the spindle between your hands, running them quickly down the spindle. Keep doing this until an ember is formed on the fireboard.

Start a fire! Once you see a glowing ember, tap the fire board to drop you ember onto the piece of bark. Transfer the bark to your nest of tinder. Gently blow on it to start your flame.

Fire Plough

Prepare your fireboard. Cut a groove in the fireboard. This will be your track for the spindle.

Rub! Take the tip of your spindle and place it in the groove of your fireboard. Start rubbing the tip of the spindle up and down the groove.

Start a fire. Have your tinder nest at the end of the fireboard, so that you’ll plow embers into as you’re rubbing. Once you catch one, blow the nest gently and get that fire going.

Bow Drill

Starting a fire with a bow drill

The bow drill is probably the most effective friction based method to use because it’s easier to maintain the speed and pressure you need to create enough friction to start a fire. In addition to the spindle and fireboard, you’ll also need a socket and a bow.

Get a socket The socket is used to put pressure on the other end of the spindle as you’re rotating it with the bow. The socket can be a stone or another piece of wood. If you use another piece of wood, try to find a harder piece than what you’re using for the spindle. Wood with sap and oil are good as it creates a lubricant between the spindle and the socket.

Make your bow. The bow should be about as long as your arm. Use a flexible piece of wood that has a slight curve. The string of the bow can be anything. A shoelace, rope, or strip of rawhide works great. Just find something that won’t break. String up your bow and you’re ready to go.

Prepare the fireboard. Cut a v-shaped notch and create a depression adjacent to it in the fireboard. Underneath the notch, place your tinder.

String up the spindle. Catch the spindle in a loop of the bow string. Place one end of the spindle in the fireboard and apply pressure on the other end with your socket.

Start sawing. Using your bow, start sawing back and forth. You’ve basically created a rudimentary mechanical drill. The spindle should be rotating quickly. Keep sawing until you create an ember.

Make you fire. Drop the ember into the tinder nest and blow on it gently. You got yourself a fire.

Flint and Steel

Flint and Steel

This is an old standby. It’s always a good idea to carry around a good flint and steel set with you on a camping trip. Matches can get wet and be become pretty much useless, but you can still get a spark from putting steel to a good piece of flint. Sweedish Firesteel-Army model is a good set to use.

If you’re caught without a flint and steel set, you can always improvise by using quartzite and the steel blade of your pocket knife (You are carrying your pocket knife, aren’t you?). You’ll also need char. Char is cloth that has been turned into charcoal. Char catches a spark and keeps it smoldering without bursting into flames. If you don’t’ have char, a piece of fungus or birch will do.

Grip the rock and char cloth. Take hold of the piece of rock between your thumb and forefinger. Make sure an edge is hanging out about 2 or 3 inches. Grasp the char between your thumb and the flint.

Strike! Grasp the back of the steel striker or use the back of your knife blade. Strike the steel against the flint several times. Sparks from the steel will fly off and land on the char cloth, causing a glow.

Start a fire. Fold up your char cloth into the tinder nest and gently blow on it to start a flame.

Lens Based Methods

Fire from a mangnifying glassPhoto by spacepleb

Using a lens to start a fire is an easy matchless method. Any boy who has melted green plastic army men with a magnifying glass will know how to do this. If you have by chance never melted green plastic army men, here’s how to do it.

Traditional Lenses

To create a fire, all you need is some sort of lens in order to focus sunlight on a specific spot. A magnifying glass, eyeglasses, or binocular lenses all work. If you add some water to the lens, you can intensify the beam. Angle the lens towards the sun in order to focus the beam into as small an area as possible. Put your tinder nest under this spot and you’ll soon have yourself a fire.

The only drawback to the lens based method is that it only works when you have sun. So if it’s night time or overcast, you won’t have any luck.

In addition to the typical lens method, there are three odd but effective lens based methods to start a fire as well.

Balloons and Condoms

By filling a balloon or condom with water, you can transform these ordinary objects into fire creating lenses.

Fill the condom or balloon with water and tie off the end. You’ll want to make it as spherical as possible. Don’t make the inflated balloon or condom too big or it will distort the sunlight’s focal point. Squeeze the balloon to find a shape that gives you a sharp circle of light. Try squeezing the condom in the middle to form two smaller lenses.

Condoms and balloons both have a shorter focal length than an ordinary lens. Hold them 1 to 2 inches from your tinder.

Fire from ice

Fire from ice isn’t just some dumb cliché used for high school prom themes. You can actually make fire from a piece of ice. All you need to do is form the ice into a lens shape and then use it as you would when starting a fire with any other lens. This method can be particularly handy for wintertime camping.

Get clear water. For this to work, the ice must be clear. If it’s cloudy or has other impurities, it’s not going to work. The best way to get a clear ice block is to fill up a bowl, cup, or a container made out of foil with clear lake or pond water or melted snow. Let it freeze until it forms ice. Your block should be about 2 inches thick for this to work.

Form your lens. Use your knife to shape the ice into a lens. Remember a lens shape is thicker in the middle and narrower near the edges.

Polish your lens. After you get the rough shape of a lens, finish the shaping of it by polishing it with your hands. The heat from your hands will melt the ice enough so you get a nice smooth surface.

Start a fire. Angle your ice lens towards the sun just as you would any other lens. Focus the light on your tinder nest and watch as you make a once stupid cliché come to life.

The Coke Can and Chocolate Bar

I saw this method in a YouTube video a while back ago and thought it was pretty damn cool. All you need is a soda can, a bar of chocolate, and a sunny day.

Polish the bottom of the soda can with the chocolate. Open up your bar of chocolate and start rubbing it on the bottom of the soda can. The chocolate acts as a polish and will make the bottom of the can shine like a mirror. If you don’t have chocolate with you, toothpaste also works.

Make your fire. After polishing the bottom of your can, what you have is essentially a parabolic mirror. Sunlight will reflect off the bottom of the can, forming a single focal point. It’s kind of like how a mirror telescope works.

Point the bottom of the can towards the sun. You’ll have created a highly focused ray of light aimed directly at your tinder. Place the tinder about an inch from the reflecting light’s focal point. In a few seconds you should have a flame.

While I can’t think of any time that I would be in the middle of nowhere with a can of Coke and chocolate bar, this method is still pretty cool.

Batteries and Steel Wool

Fire from steel wool and a battery

Like the chocolate and soda can method, it’s hard to imagine a situation where you won’t have matches, but you will have some batteries and some steel wool. But hey, you never know. And it’s quite easy and fun to try at home.

Stretch out the Steel Wool. You want it to be about 6 inches long and a ½ inch wide.

Rub the battery on the steel wool. Hold the steel wool in one hand and the battery in the other. Any battery will do, but 9 volt batteries work best. Rub the side of the battery with the “contacts” on the wool. The wool will begin to glow and burn. Gently blow on it.

Transfer the burning wool to your tinder nest. The wool’s flame will extinguish quickly, so don’t waste any time.


Field and Stream

Primitive Ways

<!– –>

related manly posts:

Different mothods of fire teckneke


Gather a variety of tinder – wood shavings, dried grass, lint, and even small twigs – before you start. No matter what method you choose for making a fire, you will always need to start with tinder. Ball the tinder up loosely to allow plenty of air flow, and shape it into a birds nest. Have plenty of bigger sticks to add once the fire starts.

  • Step 2

    Use a little magnesium and flint block: Scrape a pile of magnesium shavings on your tinder and strike a spark off the flint. The magnesium will ignite and hopefully start flame in your tinder. Once it begins to smoke, hold the tinder in your hands to allow oxygen in through the bottom and blow gently from underneath.

  • Step 3

    Use a magnifying glass on a sunny day: Angle the magnifying glass in the sun over the tinder so that the focal point is directly on the pile. Once it begins to smoke you can encourage the flame by blowing gently on the tinder from the bottom. Broken glass, bottles or eyeglasses can also work, if their focal point is bright enough.

  • Step 4

    Use a 6-volt battery and steel wool: Tear the wool into a loose mass and touch it to both charges on the battery. Doing so will connect the circuit and cause a spark, and cause the steel wool to glow. Once it’s hot enough, you can place it on the tinder until it catches.

  • Step 5

    Use bullets: Remove a bullet from its cartridge and pour half the powder on your tinder. Put the half-empty cartridge back in the gun (without a bullet), and fire it at the tinder. Be certain that your tinder is at the base of a tree or in an enclosed area because the gunfire will likely blow the tinder away and might put out the same flame it creates.

  • Step 6

    Use Friction: Place the point of a straight stick into a groove in a piece of bark or flat wood. Ideally, both of these pieces contain no sap or moisture. Rub the stick vigorously between your hands, while the point creates friction against the other piece of wood. Eventually the wood will heat until it creates a small ember which you can drop in the tinder nest.

  • how to cook a fish without a skillit
  • http://www.ehow.com/how_2467_cook-fish-without.html

    Salt and pepper a whole, sectioned or filleted fish.

  • Step 2

    Spread a tablespoon of butter along the length of fish.

  • Step 3

    Wrap the fish in a double thickness of aluminum foil.

  • Step 4

    Place the fish on the hot coals of a diminishing fire.

  • Step 5

    Cook for about 20 minutes for a 10- to 12-inch fish.

  • About this entry